El Paso City Grill
by Cassandra Yardeni
In these tough economic times, when businesses big and small are feeling the cash crunch, it is both refreshing and heartening to see a new door open, rather than shut. And when that door belongs to a charming and shockingly inexpensive new restaurant in Downtown, there is even more reason to celebrate.
In September, El Pasoan Thierry Oppenheimer opened El Paso City Grill. Tucked away in the heart of Downtown’s Segundo Barrio, the recently-opened eatery is a welcome addition to the city’s bill of fare.
Oppenheimer is no stranger to the kitchen, as her name has been synonymous with edible works of art in the city for over a decade. In 1995, she opened Sweet Art Festive Cakes, whipping up decadent custom cakes for weddings, birthdays and every event in between.
So when a longtime friend and fellow chef stumbled upon a recently vacated restaurant next door to his local post office, he knew just who to call. “[My friend] pulled me away from my work and drove me to the 500-block of South Mesa and Third Avenue in Downtown,” Oppenheimer remembers. “I found it be truly a surprise,” she says of the empty adobe space. “It had personality. A tree-filled patio, a shady porch. [The building had] quaint dining rooms and a big kitchen that could accommodate many ideas and creative possibilities.”
And although opening a restaurant hadn’t been on Oppenheimer’s agenda, the potential she saw that afternoon was too enticing to pass up. Within a week, Oppenheimer and her friend and silent partner had signed a contract, created a name, a logo and hired a clean-up crew. Just four weeks and a fresh coat of paint later, El Paso City Grill opened its doors on September 12.
The result of the month-long project? “Just a nice, clean little place to eat, under our patio trees or a favorite corner table inside,” says Oppenheimer. Although the space is modest and minimally decorated, the portions are generous and each dish is nothing short of delicious. If “less is more” is their motto, City Grill customers can rest assured the low menu prices bring with them big taste.
“It’s all about the food!” says Oppenheimer. “The importance of very high quality–products, attention to details, flavors and colors,” are what set El Paso City Grill apart from other El Paso eateries. “Plates brimming with delicious green salads and hearty sandwiches, a wedge of chocolate cake with a drizzle of ganache and a touch of Cognac, why not? The simple surroundings will fill in with time,” she assures. The nondescript décor has certainly not discouraged diners, who Oppenheimer says often visit twice a day.
On a recent lunchtime visit to the restaurant, most tables were filled with returning patrons and curious passersby. While the sirloin tacos were amongst the most requested plates, savvy patrons selected the homemade lasagna with a large glass of raspberry lemonade. Other menu items include huevos rancheros, chile rellenos, paninis and pasta dishes and of course, slices of Oppenheimer’s famous cakes. “A very simple menu allows each chef to concentrate on his best dish and ‘spice’ it up just right,” says Oppenheimer. Dishes often come prepared Trattoria–style, with ingredients like mint and basil plucked fresh each day.
Open for just a few months, it hasn’t taken long for the eatery to become a neighborhood favorite. “During our planning weeks, we were frequented by the locals who had eaten here when La Feria Restaurant [occupied this space], and asked if we still had caldo or comida corrida. They were impressed with the clean new look, then tasted [Chef] Sandra’s enchiladas and caldo and they quickly became regulars!”
Wedged between a neighborhood grocery store, a post office and a retired cable car, El Paso City Grill has quickly become a part of Segundo Barrio’s unique landscape. And as for fans of Oppenheimer’s legendary cakes, fear not; her baking business continues to thrive as she juggles her time between Sweet Art and the City Grill. “The kitchen is a good place for me; preparing different recipes allows me the freedom to be creative enough and operate this little restaurant and the bakery, too,” she says.
“Our niche is the quality of our good food,” Oppenheimer reminds customers. “The restaurant…has a humbleness about it because we want it to be about the people and the food they enjoy. Just look for the big blue mailbox right outside the door.”
The El Paso City Grill is located at 504 S. Mesa St. at Third Ave. Restaurant hours are between 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. For more information, call 915.875.1883 or visit www.elpasocitygrill.com.
